Let’s get this out of the way: cowboy boot sizing is a complete mess. It’s not like buying sneakers. If you’re staring at a box labeled “9D,” “8M,” or “7B” and have no idea what’s going on, you’re not alone. The letters are the most confusing part, especially the “M.”
I’m here to clear this up for good. As someone who has fitted and worn more boots than I can count, this is the simple, no-BS guide to what those letters mean so you can get the right fit the first time.
The “M” Mystery Solved
The short answer is: “M” stands for “Medium” width.
But here is the trap that gets *everyone*: “Medium” means something different depending on whether the boot is for a man or a woman. This is the #1 reason people buy the wrong size.
The Guru’s Sizing Cheat Sheet:
- In MEN’S Boots: M = D width (This is the standard, “regular” fit)
- In WOMEN’S Boots: M = B width (This is the standard, “regular” fit)
So, if you see a men’s boot listed as “9M,” it’s a “9D.” If you see a women’s boot listed as “8M,” it’s an “8B.” The letter “M” is just a user-friendly label, but the *real* industry widths are letters like B, D, and EE.
Is M Wider Than D? A Guide to Widths
This is the second-most-common question, and the answer is no.
In men’s sizing, **M and D are the same thing.** They both mean “Medium” or “Standard” width.
Here’s how to read the full alphabet for both men and women. This is what you actually need to know.
Men’s Boot Widths (The “D” Standard)
- B: Narrow
- D (or M): Medium / Standard
- EE (or W): Wide
- EEE (or EW, XW): Extra Wide
(Guru’s Tip: Most brands, like Ariat, will list “D or M” for their regular men’s width. They are interchangeable.)
Women’s Boot Widths (The “B” Standard)
- A: Narrow
- B (or M): Medium / Standard
- C (or W): Wide
As you can see, a man’s “Medium” (D) is physically wider than a woman’s “Medium” (B). This is why it’s generally not a great idea to just buy from the other department unless you know your exact width conversions.
The BootsGuru’s 3 Rules for a Perfect Fit
Now that you know the letters, forget them. The *feel* is what matters. A cowboy boot doesn’t fit like a tennis shoe. Here are the three secrets to getting a perfect fit.
Rule 1: Fit the Instep, Not the Toe
This is the most important secret. The fit of a cowboy boot is all about the **instep** (the top of your foot). When you slide your foot in, you should feel a firm, snug “handshake” or “hug” over the top of your foot. It should be snug, but *not* tight or painful.
If the instep is loose, the boot is too big, no matter what your toe is doing. If it’s painfully tight, you’ll never break it in.
Rule 2: Embrace the Heel Slip
This freaks everyone out. When you first try on a *new* pair of boots, your heel MUST slip. A 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch slip is perfect. This is *not* a sign the boot is too big.
Why? Because the sole is brand new and stiff. As you walk, the sole will flex and “break in.” As the sole flexes, the heel slip will disappear. If it doesn’t slip at all when it’s new, it means the boot is too short, and it will be agonizing once the sole breaks in.
Rule 3: Start a Half-Size Down
Forget what you do with Nikes. As a general rule, cowboy boots fit larger than your regular shoes. I always tell people to start by trying on a boot that is a half-size *down* from your normal sneaker size. If you wear a 10.5 in running shoes, grab a 10D and start there.
The Guru’s Style & Break-In FAQ
You’ve got the fit. Now here are the quick-and-dirty answers to the questions you’re probably thinking.
How to Wear ‘Em (Tucking, Socks, etc.)
- Should guys tuck jeans into cowboy boots? No. Just no. Wear your boot-cut or straight-leg jeans *over* the boot. The only exception is if you are literally in a rodeo, mucking a stall, or caught in a flash flood.
- Can women wear cowboy boots with skinny jeans or leggings? Absolutely. This is the look. Skinny jeans are perfect for showing off a boot with a great design on the shaft.
- What socks do you wear? Get a proper boot sock. Don’t you dare wear ankle socks—you’ll get your shins rubbed raw. I prefer merino wool boot socks. They’re breathable, wick moisture, and don’t bunch up.
The Break-In Period
- How long does it take? I call it the “100-Hour Rule.” With regular wear (a few hours a day), it can take 80-100 hours of *wearing* them for the leather to fully break in and mold to your foot. Be patient.
- Can you soak cowboy boots in water to break them in? You *can*, but I’m not a fan. It’s a “last resort” method. Yes, it can make the leather mold to your foot faster, but it also strips the leather of its natural oils and can cause it to dry out and crack if you don’t condition it perfectly afterward. The best way is the slow way: just wear them.
My Final Word
Don’t let the alphabet soup of sizing scare you off. The takeaway is simple: **M means Medium**, but the *letter* (D for Men, B for Women) is the real truth. Focus on getting a snug fit across your instep, make sure your heel has a little slip, and you’ll have a pair of boots that will last you a lifetime.
